Dreaming of a rich, easy-care yard? Before you put down your artificial grass, there's a key thing you must do—smooth out the dirt. Bumpy land can mess up the look, water flow, wear and tear, and the last touch of your faux grass. Whether you love weekend DIY or are buying wholesale artificial grass for a big redo, making that base flat and firm is key. In this blog, I’ll show you how to get your uneven soil ready and flat like a pro, so your new yard looks great and stays that way—no lumps, no wet areas, just lush green all year.
1. Get Rid of the Debris and Vegetation:
Remove the Grass, Weeds, and Rocks from the Canvas:
Start by taking out all the plants and dirt. Any roots, grass, or earth left can shake up your base as time goes by. Just do these easy steps:
1. Mark your area: Use spray paint or pegs and string to mark the edges of where the lawn will be.
2. Remove existing turf: Walk a spade along the marker line, then pull up the turf in strips.
3. Dig out plant matter: Dig at least 50 mm below where your final base will be to get rid of all roots.
4. Remove debris & stones: Run a garden rake or use a territory fork to get big rocks out, those bigger than 20 mm.
By doing this first, you make sure no weeds come back under your turf or stick out from behind it later.
Pro‑Tip:
Rent a rotavator if your ground has deep roots—this tool cuts through stuck roots fast, better than hand tools, and stirs up the topsoil, making it easy to take away.
Check out Wholesale Artificial Grass Bundles once your spot is clean and set for the next move.
2. Dig to the Proper Depth:
How Deep Should You Go When Digging In?
The depth you dig out defines how thick your base and fill will be. Go for a full depth of 75–100 mm under the turf level you want:
50–75mm of tightly packed crushed rock (Type 1 or MOT Type 1)
20–25mm of coarse sand or stone dust to level it out at the end
How To Do It:
1. Measure depth: Start from the ground level you see first, and put tape on the spade to make sure you dig the same amount everywhere.
2. Shovel in layers: Dig in steps of 25 mm each time, not all in one go—this stops big mistakes in how deep you go.
3. Check consistency: Put a long level ruler over many spots to make sure the depth is the same all over the place.
Pro‑Tip:
Set a 2m level on a long, straight wood stick. Move the stick over the area to find high and low parts without bending down—this saves time and is easy on your back.
Grab Excavation Depth Guides online for depth info that fits your grass type.
3. Determine and Modify the Grade of Your Soil:
Drain & Slope: Making Sure Water Runs Off:
Good drainage stops pools and wet grass. A small drop of 1–2% from buildings is best (10–20 mm down for every metre). Here’s how to do it:
1. Establish reference line: Place a string line between two sticks—one high, one low.
2. Measure fall: Use a line level to check the same slant over the space’s width.
3. Adjust soil: Put in or take out dirt under the base layer until the slope is right.
A good slope keeps water from gathering under the grass and moves it to where it can drain away.
Pro‑Tip:
If your area is wide and level, think about putting a linear drainage channel at the lowest part—this helps a lot when there's a lot of rain.
Check out Drainage Solution Kits that snap together for fast setup.
4. Put a Geotextile Membrane:
Weed Blocker: Prevent Unwanted Growth on Your Turf:
A geotextile membrane acts like a shield against weeds and dirt mixing. It keeps the sub-base apart from the soil you found there:
1. Roll out the fabric: Make sure edges overlap by 150 mm so there are no open spots.
2. Secure with pins: Put U-shaped pins down every 500 mm along where it joins and at the edges.
3. Trim excess: Make sure to cut a 50 mm edge outside the dug place for holding it down.
This part stops weed shoots from coming up and keeps your stone layer clean and apart from mixing with the earth below.
Pro‑Tip:
Pick a sun-safe, thick fabric that’s made for “Type BC” loads. This kind makes sure it can take lots of steps and stops roots from pushing through.
Buy Landscape Fabric Rolls in large amounts for big tasks.
5. Compact and Add Base Material:
Create a Rock-Solid Foundation Using Crushed Aggregate:
Your sub-base holds up the turf system like bones in a body. Crushed stones—MOT Type 1 or similar—give firmness, water flow, and strength to bear load:
1. Spread aggregate: Place 25 mm of stones, even out with a rake.
2. Compact: Use a flat press machine with at least 1,000 kg force.
3. Repeat: Put down another 25-50 mm layer, make it solid again until you hit the full depth you need.
Every solid layer gets rid of air holes and makes a base that won't shift much.
Pro-Tip:
Lightly wet the aggregate before making it solid—damp soil gets tighter, but don't let it pool.
Look up Base Layer Aggregates for good prices and ways to get them.
6. Fine-Grade & Screed for a Level Surface:
Using Sand and Screed Rails to Make It Perfectly Flat:
The final smooth layer is 20–25 mm of sharp sand or stone dust:
1. Set screed guides: Put two straight sticks side by side at the needed high spot, with your level tool.
2. Pour sand: Put sand between sticks, a bit too high.
3. Screed: Pull a flat bar over the sticks, moving extra sand ahead.
4. Remove guides: Put sand in the spots where the guides were, then screed once more to keep it even.
Getting the sand bed just right makes sure your turf sits flat and stops it from getting wrinkled.
Pro‑Tip:
Let the sand stay still overnight after screeding, check the flatness again, and fill up any dips before laying the turf.
Get Screeding Technique PDF online for step-by-step pictures and help with fixing any issues.
7. Use Spirit Level and Straightedge to Check Level:
Identify the Bumps—Final Quality Control Tools:
Before you put down the grass, take one last good look:
Straightedge test: Put a 2m long metal straightedge on the sand—if you see gaps, fill in the low parts.
Cross‑check gradient: Use the line level from side to side and end to end to make sure there are no unwanted tilts.
Final tidy: Clean up any loose sand and check that no trash is left.
A final close look keeps little flaws from becoming big bumps you can see.
Pro‑Tip:
Go for a laser level for exact rightness—borrow one for a day if it's not yours, to get that ideal flatness.
Look at Essential Lawn Leveling Tools to buy or rent.
8. Final Preparation & Edge Restraints:
Maintain It—Setting Up Infill and Edging:
Edge restraints keep your fake grass’s edges firm and stop it from moving:
1. Install edging: Use concrete curves, metal strips, or plastic borders set around the edge.
2. Secure turf edges: Put in U‑pins made of galvanized metal or nails every 200 mm along the edge.
3. Add infill: Brush in sand made of silica or bits of rubber weighing 2–4 kg/m² to hold down fibers and help blades stand up again.
This last prep step ties your grass to the base and gets the blades ready to stand up right.
Pro‑Tip:
Go for aluminum edging for a clean look; plastic edging costs less but can bend in very hot weather.
Look up Artificial Grass Edging Solutions to finish your setup.
FAQs:
1. Does installing artificial grass require planning permission?
In most cases, no—you can usually change your old lawn to fake grass without needing a OK from anyone. Just be sure to check with your local area rules if your house is in a special care zone.
2. Can a slope be covered with fake grass?
Yes, however, the gradient shouldn't be more than 1:10. Before laying turf, think about terracing or retaining walls in regions that are steeper.
3. After installation, when can I start walking on the turf?
You should wait at least 24 hours after the final touches, like edge fixing and adding filler. This time, let the glue dry and the filler pack down well.
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