Putting in artificial grass Bradford may look easy—roll it out, fix the sides, and there: a lawn that needs no care. But miss a key step or skip parts, and you could end up paying for fixes, new installs, or even bad wrinkles and pools. Whether you buy from big artificial grass wholesale sellers or get it from local shops, dodging these errors can save your cash, time, and tears. If you want to redo your yard without losing all your money, stay with us. Because often, saving cash begins with knowing just what to avoid.
1. Not Getting the Ground Ready Right:
The Error:
Thinking the lawn or soil you have is good to go for new grass, and putting fake grass on top of rough, loose dirt.
Why It Costs You More:
Bumpy Ground: High and low spots can make you trip and cause waves in the grass.
Bad Water Flow: Water gathers and doesn't spread out, which leads to mould, stink, and damage to the grass.
Faster Ageing: The grass wears out poorly, leading to early damage and fixes needed.
Pro-Tip: Dig up about 75-100mm of topsoil, roots, and mess. Then, lay down a geotextile membrane. Put down layers of small rocks, each 25mm thick, and press each down until they're solid. End with a thin top layer of fine sand.
2. Not Enough Drainage Plans:
The Mistake:
Just using holes in the grass for water run-off, not looking at the land tilt, how well the ground below soaks up water, or if more ways to drain are needed.
Why It Costs More:
Water Pools: Water sits and hurts the layer under, and brings algae/mold.
Grass Comes Up: Soaked ground moves, making joints split and sides come up.
Big Clean-Up Trouble: You might need to clean often, treat parts, or put in new grass entirely.
Pro-Tip: Make the base tilt away from buildings at a 1-2% angle. If you get a lot of rain, think about putting in a French drain or a thin gravel trench at the bottom of slopes to catch extra water.
3. Picking Bad Base Material:
The Mistake:
Going for low-cost sand or soft soil over well-set rocks for the base.
Why It's Costly:
Sinking & Dropping: Weak or bad stuff packs down wrong, making holes.
More Fixes: Stuff wearing down badly means you fix spots over and over.
No Warranty: Lots of grass cover plans need a good base; not doing so kills the cover.
Pro‑Tip: Opt for MOT Type 1 or crushed limestone for a strong sub-base that's permeable. Pack it down with a vibrating plate compactor at 3000–4000 psi to make a firm ground.
4. Not Taking Care of Weeds:
The Mistake:
Not using a weed block or thinking old weed killer will keep working alone.
Why It Costs More:
Weeds Come Through: Weeds and grass grow up, needing to be sprayed or fixing of the grass.
Looks Bad: Ugly weeds ruin the look of a good lawn.
Work Costs: Often, weeding or using sprays makes care cost more.
Pro-Tip: Put down a strong weed blocker under the first layer. Make sure the edges overlap by at least 150 mm and use rust-free pins to keep it in place.
5. Ignoring Techniques for Seam Joining:
The Error:
Pushing grass rolls side by side, with no seam tape, glue, or line checks.
Why It’s More Costly:
Showing seams: Bad joins that are easy to see and look bad.
Seams Fall Apart: With use, edges lift, needing new glue or new pieces.
Moisture Gets In: Spaces make water seep beneath the grass. This makes it break down fast.
6. Picking Bad or No Infill:
The Error:
Using too little or wrong infill (like not enough sand or missing rubber bits) or leaving out infill to cut costs.
Why It Ends Up Costly:
Flat Fibres: Not enough weight makes fibres bend and wear out fast.
Sun Harm: Backing gets worse in the sun when there's no infill to shield it.
Feeling and Safety Trouble: Not enough padding affects comfort and how safe it is not to slip.
Pro-Tip: Put down 4–6 kg/m² of dry silica sand for normal grass. For areas for sports or pets, add 2–4 kg/m² of TPE or rubber bits to make it tougher and more comfy.
7. Unreliable Edge Fixing & Absence of Anchors:
The Error:
Only making the edges steady at some spots or not using holds inside at all, mainly when on a hill.
Why It Costs More:
Edges Rise: Wind pulls or folks walking lift edges, letting dirt get under.
Bumpy Ground: Turf sides curl up, making risks and needing to pin again.
Less Stable: With no holds, the turf might move, causing uneven use and the costs of putting it back right.
Pro-Tip: Fix with U-shaped pins made of galvanised metal every 10-15 cm on all edges and every 1 m over the area, mainly on slopes. For more hold, put in wood or metal boards around the edge.
8. Ignoring Product Quality & UV Resistance:
The Mistake:
Choosing just the cheapest grass without checking if it's UV protected, has a thick base, or has strong threads.
Why It Costs More:
Quick Fade: Fibres not treated for UV turn light in the sun, leading to sooner changes.
Weak Base: A slim base rips with pressure, leading to layers peeling apart.
Flattening & Matting: Bad quality fibres lose their bounce quickly.
FAQs:
1. How long will fake grass that's put in right stay good?
If put in right and kept up well, good fake grass lasts 10–15 years in the usual UK weather.
2. Can I put in fake grass on my own to spend less money?
Doing it yourself can save money on work, but wrong steps can add costs. For the best promise and long life, it's good to have pros do it.
3. What does it cost for each square meter to put in fake grass?
Plan on £40–£70 per square meter for everything (ground base, layer, grass, fill, work). Top sports-grade setups may be £80–£100 per square meter.
0 Comments